The Hidden Cost of Thrifting

Bargain-hunting is hardly an American invention — from open-air flea markets in Morocco to secondhand stalls in Paris, shoppers everywhere love the thrill of a deal. In the United States, though, thrifting has grown into a cultural staple. It’s valued not only as a way to save money, but also as a tradition tied to creativity, self-expression and, increasingly, sustainability.

Americans embrace thrifting at remarkable levels. In 2025, about 16 to 18 percent of Americans shopped at thrift stores, while another 12 to 15 percent visited consignment or resale shops, according to research compiled by Capital One and NARTS. A New York Post survey found that 66 percent of Americans thrift regularly and nearly one in five do so weekly. The result is a booming industry: the U.S. secondhand apparel market generated $53 billion in 2023, and online resale is projected to reach $40 billion by 2029, according to ThredUp’s 2025 Resale Report.

The trend reflects a global boom. The worldwide secondhand apparel market is valued at $260 billion today and is forecasted to hit $523 billion by 2030, growing at roughly 2.7 times the speed of the broader apparel market, according to Fashion United and Uniform Market. The U.S. leads in scale, with more than 28,000 thrift stores nationwide and a resale market valued at $39 billion, the highest in the world.

But behind the bargains lies a paradox. The flood of donations has lowered overall quality. Racks that once held durable staples now overflow with polyester tops and fast fashion jeans never meant to last beyond a season. This is not just an American issue. In Paris, friperies (secondhand shops) face the same challenge, contrasting sharply with French wardrobes traditionally built on fewer, long-lasting pieces. By comparison, U.S. consumer culture often prizes novelty — shoppers justify buying more simply because it’s cheap.

What can’t be sold is another hidden cost. In the U.S., only a fraction of donated clothes make it to the sales floor. The rest is bundled and sold in bulk to recyclers or shipped overseas. As Le Monde has reported, many of those bales end up in West Africa, where they undercut local textile industries and worsen environmental problems when unsellable clothing piles up in landfills or is burned.

Sustainability experts warn that secondhand shopping only reduces waste when it replaces buying new — and when clothes are worn until they wear out. Otherwise, thrifting risks becoming another arm of overconsumption.

For American shoppers, the takeaway isn’t to abandon thrifting but to rethink it. The tradition of bargain-hunting is worth celebrating, but its value lies in restraint: buy less, choose carefully, and commit to wearing what you bring home. That lesson holds true whether your find comes from a Paris boutique, a U.S. Goodwill or a crowded market halfway around the world.

Por Samantha Gilstrap